I’VE been doing this job for almost a decade, and while it never gets old, a slight cynicism can creep in now and then – given the rate at which I’m inundated with new trends that become old news before I’ve made it to my next hair-wash day.
Something I’ve never once met with an eye-roll, however, is perfume.
Even when the world’s first “lickable” fragrance launched last year (I’m looking at you Amorecco Late Night Gelato, £55 for 50ml), I jumped at the chance to try it and made the whole office do the same – it was an unexpected hit.
I love how subjective fragrance is, and how it evokes emotions – I might know I won’t wear a certain scent, but trying to decode the notes in it is still more satisfying than any crossword puzzle.
While celebrity-backed, blockbuster scents have their place in my stash, it’s the niche perfume brands I turn to when I’m looking for a truly unique signature scent, and these are my favourite…
THE EXPERT’S PICK
When I was introduced to Essential Parfums, I was surprised to find there isn’t a single scent in the line-up I don’t like.
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The concept is just as good, giving perfumers free reign to create fragrances they love (rather than meeting a brief and strict budget from a brand), with the goal of democratising access to fine perfume.
It’s basically the The Ordinary of the perfume world.
Like The Ordinary, Essential Parfums also eliminated fancy ads and luxe outer packaging in favour of sustainable boxes.
Still, the glass fragrance bottles fit right in with high-end brands in my stash – and they’re refillable.
Essential Parfums Néroli Botanica By Anne Flipo, £86 for 100ml EDP
The 11 perfumers behind them are a Who’s Who of the industry, such as Anne Flipo – the nose behind Lancôme La Vie Est Belle, £97 for 50ml EDP, and Givenchy Irresistible, £83 for 50ml EDP, as well as my fave launch from the brand, Essential Parfums Néroli Botanica By Anne Flipo, £86 for 100ml EDP.
The addition of pink and black pepper, turmeric leaves and ginger alongside orange blossom, gives the airy floral a deeper spiciness that makes it truly unisex, and smells like a crisp, sunny spring day.
THE FRENCH FANCY
With hundreds of perfumes to her name, there aren’t many brands Anne hasn’t worked with, but another one I want to draw your attention to is Solférino.
It launched last summer and is definitely on the more expensive side, but each fragrance is designed to recreate specific moments or memories on the streets of Paris – a night out in Saint-Germain or watching the Eiffel Tower’s reflection sparkle on the Seine – and the cost per spritz works out far cheaper than a mini-break.
Solférino L’Ete Avenue Gabriel N10, £140 for 70ml EDP
If you’re an Emily in Paris fan, it’s definitely the kind of brand Agence Grateau would clamour to represent.
I suspect Sylvie would be a fan of the woody, musky Solférino L’Ete Avenue Gabriel N10, £140 for 70ml EDP, which features heady rose, leather and irish, while the sweet and creamy vanilla of Solférino Un Samedi A Paris N5, £140 for 70ml EDP, has Emily written all over it.
THE ALTERNATIVE CHOICE
Another brand I discovered last year that deserves more hype is Maison Louis Marie.
It creates everything from candles to bodycare, using mainly botanical ingredients, and opting for synthetic materials if it’s the more sustainable option.
But it’s the perfume oils that are the most special, as their staying power is unrivalled.
Maison Louis Marie No.04 Bois De Balincourt Perfume oil, £60 for 15ml, is the brand’s best-selling product at Boots.
Maison Louis Marie No.14 Icila Perfume Oil, £60 for 15ml
Inspired by the founder’s family home, it’s a comforting, timeless blend of cinnamon sandalwood, cedar and nutmeg.
But my scent of choice is the clean, juicy Maison Louis Marie No.14 Icila Perfume Oil, £60 for 15ml, which is the perfect combo of fruity, floral and a little bit sexy, thanks to a mix of the grapefruit, jasmine and plum – I always feel my best self when I wear it.
THE MOOD-BOOSTER
If you’ve read anything I’ve written over the past few years, there’s a high chance I heaped praise on Arkive.
Four years on from its launch, it continues to be one of my most-used brands, which isn’t easy in such a fast-paced industry.
Arkive The Brightside, £30 for 50ml EDP
Arkive The Brightside, £30 for 50ml EDP, hit the shelves this month, with the sunshine-yellow bottle housing an equally optimistic scent of zesty lime and bergamot alongside basil, vetiver and cedarwood.
It’s a breath of fresh air in a bottle.
THE HANDMADE ONE
Never did I ever think I’d wear a perfume that reminded me of ironing, given I can’t remember the last time I picked up an actual iron – but the nostalgic Baruti Hot Cotton, £120 for 50ml EDP, is irresistible.
It feels like a warm hug, and transports me back to Sunday evenings at home as a child when my mum would be ironing my school uniform.
Baruti Hot Cotton, £120 for 50ml EDP
Founder Dr Spyros Drosopoulos is a self-taught perfumer and bases his creations on everyday scents, such as chai lattes, cut grass and cosy nights by the fireplace – all crafted by hand in Rotterdam.
THE MEMBER’S CLUB
True perfume lovers will adore Ffern, £89 for 32ml EDP.
It treats fragrance like fine wine, from the growing of ingredients to ageing the juice in barrels.
Every scent is limited edition – to nab one, you have to sign up to a waiting list, then a bottle will be made for you four times a year (a new one for each season).
Ffern Spring 26, £89 for 32ml EDP
With each drop you’re sent a sample, so if you don’t like it, you can return it for free.
Any returned bottles are stored in the Ffern Archive, so members can get their hands on past editions.
If you find fragrance shopping overwhelming, you’ll love this approach.
THE FAMILY AFFAIR
I can’t decide if it’s because of my Irish roots or my soft spot for neroli, but it was love at first sniff with The Burren Perfumery, and more specifically, The Burren Perfumery Néroli, £113 for 50ml EDP.
It’s soapy, citrusy and woody – spraying it feels like stepping into sunlight, as if it’s golden hour, bottled.
The Burren Perfumery Néroli, £113 for 50ml EDP
The small, family- run business is based on the west coast of Ireland, and you can tour the farm year round to see the products being made.
There’s even a tea room on site, where you can eat and drink produce created with ingredients from the herb garden – it’s top of my list for my next trip!
THE MASCULINE FLORAL
As far as I’m concerned, there’s no such thing as men’s and women’s scents – and some of my favourites are marketed for guys.
Case in point is Horace, a men’s grooming brand by nature, whose first foray into fragrance might just be the perfect rose scent.
Horace Oud Rose, £62 for 50ml EDP, balances the flower with rosemary, blackcurrant, patchouli and sandalwood to remove any powdery notes, and replaces it with a rich, almost spicy edge that makes it unforgettable.
Horace Oud Rose, £62 for 50ml EDP
It’s made me rethink everything I thought I knew (and hated!) about rose-based perfumes.